Tuesday, November 10, 2009

Saint Martin's Day in Hungary

Saint Martin and the 11th of November, the day that celebrates him, are well known all over Europe: an acclaimed Bishop of Tours during the 4th century, he experienced visions and impressed Christians with his enthusiasm that urged them to destroy the pagans' temples, altars, sculptures and convert them. His veneration was very popular during the Middle Ages and even today he is one of the best known Catholic saints, the day dedicated to him being an important one in the Christian calendar.
Saint Martin is particularly dear to Hungarians, as he was born in Savaria, Pannonia, which today is the town of Szombathely from the western part of the country. Local legends say that when he was elected bishop he refused to accept the honour and tried to hide in a goose-pen, but the geese cackled and betrayed him - based on this tale in Hungary he is mostly known from folklore, and throughout the centuries many popular traditions have been linked to his person.

In the countryside Martin's (in Hungarian: Márton) day marks the closure of the farm labour period that starts each April with Saint George's Day: harvesting of field crops is finished and domestic animal herds are gathered and moved from the pastures to stock-yards. With the help of a rod sheperds lead their animals home to their owners and receive their annual pay and gifts (usually a goose) in return for their service – the rods are then placed on the rooftops of stables to protect the livestock and are used again next spring for the same work.
Then to ensure an abundance of food and drink throughout the year feasts are held, because according to a belief that goes back to the 12th century, whoever doesn't eat goose meat ("mártonlúd") on St. Martin's Day will go hungry and be weak all year round. From the breast-bone of the goose, villagers can prognosticate the weather: if the bone is long and white winter will bring snow, if it's short and brown the following months will be muddy. On the same day new wine is tasted for the first time, so the celebration usually turns into a cheerful party.

If you happen to be visiting someone in Hungary or are a tourist in Budapest this week, you will find that this autumn festivity rooted in folk culture is kept alive by local families and many restaurants pay attention to it too by including adequate items in their menus. So blend in and go out to dinner - make sure you order a roasted goose leg, potatoes with onions, steamed red cabbage, and drink some wine made from this year's grape yield.

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